Two pieces, both 29.75in long were attached to the board, one along the front edge and the other along the back. Taking both the primed case and the laminated board outside, I applied several layers of Rustoleum Flat Whiteīefore placing the laminated board into the case, I added the two horizontal pieces of 2020 V slot.I then laminated the aluminum sheet to the piece of MDF I cut a thin piece of aluminum sheet (Purchased at local Home Improvement Store) to the same dimensions.To solve this problem, I cut a piece of 1/2in MDF (Any 1/2in sheet good will do) to 29.75in x 18.5in.Not to mention the two large holes that the manufacture thought were a create idea to add to the bottom of a laser. The bottom of the case is not actually super flat, nor rigid.Then, I gave the interior of the case a good coat of self-etching primer I masked everything off on the case that I didn’t want to be painted. I used an orbital sander to knock the metal burs down and get the bottom of the case smooth.I was able to cut several of the welds and those I couldn’t reach I was able to bend the metal back and forth until they snapped. Use a grinder or rotary tool to cut the tac welds. The center divider as well as the front support “shelf” will need to be cut out.The whole unit will come out as one piece. Disassemble / remove the X-Y mechanism.Raise them up and you will find a spring loaded pin on one side of each lid, pull the pin back and the lids should just come right off. Next, the two lids (Doors) can be removed.I wrapped mine with ample electrical tape. Keep that in mind when splicing it back together. This wire appears thick on the outside but is actually very thin on the inside.
#GRBL CONTROLLER FOR K40 HOW TO#
You can follow the instructions online for changing the laser tube to learn how to disconnect this wire, or you can be lazy like I was and just cut the wire half way between the PSU and the Laser Tube. If your machine is like mine, you will have a RED wire going from the PSU (Blue power supply) through the case to the back of the laser.I would recommend you unscrew all of the wires and remove all of the switches, gauges, and everything else from the right hand side of the machine first. Make sure the Mains power is disconnected and let the power supply sit over night (Just to be safe).However, there is a chance your power supply (PSU) is different, so please make sure it looks the same before using my work as an example. Don’t stress, there is also a wiring diagram below. That way, you will have a reference of how things were before you/we broke it. Start by FIRST taking a picture of your wiring. To start, we will need to empty the case of everything (Proceed at your own risk as we are dealing with high voltage, cutting and Lasers). I printed everything out of PETG at a 0.2mm layer height on an Ender 3. The 3D printed parts are available over on thingiverse at. Links to many of the items used can be found below in the Bill of Materials. The rest can be ordered through amazon, or. Most of the parts required for this conversion will be 3D printed. Please take note that I have included the STP (Generated in Fusion 360) file on Thingiverse, please use this for reference as this guide, being done from memory, may miss a few items. Being committed to gutting the cutter, I decided to see just how big of a cutting area I could get. After some tinkering, I decided finally to just rip the old mechanics out. My machine would bind and move unreliably. Even with the reworked electronics, I quickly became tired of the “sub-par” mechanics. If you are interested in just upgrading the electronics, this guide will cover some of that as well. I knew I would do that before even purchasing the machine. I personally don’t like this as a permanent solution, so I choose right out of the gate to replace the electronics with a more legit, and open hardware/software solution. Most of the time, when you purchase a K40, it will come with an illegal copy (Trial Copy maybe) of Corel draw. This board communicates with a computer running Corel Draw. The stock machine is capable of basic laser operations at reasonable speeds but has been ham strung by the use of a proprietary controller board, called a Moshi Board.
The original Chinese manufactures state they are for making stamps and as such will come with a very weird set of features and mechanics that are “optimized” (Very generous term) for this function. There are several sub variants of the K40 but generally they are in a white and blue or red steel case and have a cutting area of 12 x 8 in (500 x 300mm). If you are reading this post, you most likely already know about the cheap 40 Watt CO2 Lasers available from China which are commonly referred to as K40s.
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